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Saturday, November 19, 2011

Vicarious climbing fun.

Last weekend a couple friends were coming through town headed to Moab and Indian Creek for the week, so a few of us joined in for the weekend.
Somehow they conned me into leading Jim Beyer's solo first ascent, "Right Side In" on Wallstreet. Mainly, I had to test out my ginormous 8.5" homemade cam.... and I'm a sucker for offwidths, even though it was my 5th lead for the entire year.

The offwidth was kinda enjoyable,in that terrifying exhausting way, but then, it ended in a blank corner about 15 feet from the top. So, being the old boring scaredy cat I am, I pulled on gear (even more....) then tied up a couple 4' slings into wanna be aiders, and got a couple moves higher, then had to free climb, or attempt too. This might have stumped me on my best day, but that day it scared me to no end. So after tooling around a while trying to figure something out, I called for a rope from the top and got out of there. Silly face climbing (with a giant hollow loose flake) stumped me again.

I also conned one of the guys into taking a few test whippers onto my homemade #3 cam.

Then Monster Cam got some more action on Castleton Tower, where I was privileged to bail a few years back(the last two pics). But this time at least my cam got up it.

Now that's an Indian Creek Rack!

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